I really enjoy the Lonely Planet series of guidebooks which, by trial and error, have proven much more reliable and accurate for us than most other publisher's efforts. Because we were sweetly gifted with around 487 Dubai guide books prior to our departure (thanks, by the way) we have become something of guide book connoisseurs. Conversely, we've been less lucky with our own purchases since arriving here, as the Gulf's ubiquitous "Explorer" series of guide books, whose jaundiced covers seem inspired by "yachting for dummies"et al, are a disappointment. These books, or at least their Oman and Dubai offerings, are particularly annoying for their lack of common sense landmarks, like say major hospitals, combined with the conspicuous inclusion of entire developments that have yet to be built.
My fellow Oaklanders at LP do let me down from time, in particular by recommending an amnesiac visa agent who is currently sunning himself atop an ill gotten pile of our Dirhams at this very moment. But that's a story that has nothing to do with China, and best left for another time.
The only other disappointment LP has dished out relates to a sin of omission, and one that could easily be fixed in the next addition of LP China. Essentially, the good folks at LP go out of their way to warn travelers against Great Wall bus tours that make excessive stops en route, all of which are geared towards hawking trinkets, adding at least two completely wasted hours to the trip. What LP didn't make clear, was that the bus line that they themselves recommend also includes two of these pointless field trips, leaving you to wonder if hiring a taxi for the day might have been a better option.
With the the price hovering around double the cost of two bus tickets, I'd say that it's well worth considering the taxi option, especially if you're only in town for a few days. Then again, I could see several of our wily Beijing cab drivers pocketing the three hundred Yuan and ditching us at the Wall-- unless a full day fare is paid upon completion? I like that idea though, it's second only to "follow that car" on my list of cinematic taxi arrangements.
In defense of LP, it's possible that the equally wily Chinese tour bus operators changed their routes after publication of the last edition. I did ask at the ticket window if the bus made extra stops, and was told "no stops," but here my sad lack of mandarin is probably to blame. Had I fully understood the situation, a feisty "bu yao" might have been useful. It says something about China's scrappy, ultra-capitalistic street vendors that the only two things we learned to say were hello, (ni hao) and don't want, (bu yao.) Actually, that sums up a large percentage of my interactions with the locals, and yet for the most part the experience is exceedingly pleasant as there always seems to be be some subtle, half winking pretext that the situation is more than slightly ridiculous.
And so, we made our way first to a complimentary lunch that consisted of the only bad food that China seemed to offer-- worse than any of the roach coaches or scary-aki joints I've ever braved, anywhere. Lunch was conveniently served on the campus of a jade factory, so we were given over an hour to wander aisle after aisle of jade walruses and magpies, wondering how much time we'd actually have at the Wall. After another short drive, we spent forty-five minutes sitting outside a wax museum (admission wasn't included or warranted) that has something to do with the ming tombs. Luckily, they had shaded outdoor seating, and I'd brought a book. Actually, that's my one piece of life advice for my lovely niece Sonia-- always carry reading material.
The Great Wall, which can be visited in multiple locations, is mainly accessible through controlled, park-like environments that feature multiple concessions, pay restrooms (although hardly restful, the word toilet is even less appropriate here) and a pit of forlorn looking black bears. Later on, I learned that you can find a guide to take you to the wild, overgrown sections of the Wall, which sounds amazing to me and well worth exploring if we make a second visit.
Before finally ascending the Wall itself, visitors must run one last gamut of commerce. The same stretch actually comes in handy on the way down, and I would recommend the beer and cucumbers, although not the hot dogs, which will probably be obvious.
The Wall itself is staggering, if you ever have the chance to see it, do so. We met a group of Chinese students at the top most part of our section of the Wall, which we reached honestly, eschewing the tram, which looked like a ride at some third rate theme park. Our new friends asked to have their picture taken with Vanessa, and later, after a bit of thought gave us the chinese names "Lucky" and "Flower". I suspect, and would agree, that the name "Lucky" derives mainly from being married to the very lovely "Flower."
That night, after resting up at our palatial, and yet slightly threadbare hotel, we made our way to a roof top restaurant bar that we'd ferreted out during our walk back from the Forbidden City. The view and the food were terrific, and made a fitting end to a very memorable day.
